More for new players....
More for new players....
by bug on 27th May 2008, 18:49
This info came from Bravo One-Six off of ASC.
Welcome to airsoft! - Updated May 2, 2006
This guide is meant to assist airsoft players just starting out here in Canada. In it, you will find information on how to choose your first gun and as well, where to get it. Also included is a basic overview of Automatic Electric Guns (AEG's).
Contents
Post 1 - How to Choose a Gun (and other gun questions)
Post 2 - Where to Get a Gun (Also - Is airsoft illegal?)
Post 3 - A basic AEG overview
Post 4 - Weapon Category Comparison and FAQ
Post 5 - Eyewear and Protection
Post 6 - Age Issues Across Canada
Post 7 - General AEG and GBB Questions
Handy Links:
The Costs of Airsoft - http://www.sirairsoft.com/pricelist.htm
POST # 1
If you ask this discussion board which gun is best, you'll quickly find yourself in hostile territory. Why? Because many people before you have come on here searching for 'the best gun'.
Short Answer: There is no best gun. All guns are very similar in stock (un-upgraded) form. The only important factors to consider are barrel length (longer barrel provides longer range and accuracy), Battery size (larger battery size allows more play time), and upgrade-ability (some guns are easier to upgrade/modify than others). All these variables are displayed with the gun on major retailer pages. Other than that, it is simply an esthetic choice. If it's your FIRST gun, buy an AEG. If you buy a sniper rifle or Gas Blow Back without ever having played, you'll instantly find yourself outgunned. And since you're asking what the best gun is. You probably don't want that to happen. Best way to see the guns is to come out to a game. You don't have to play, and most people will let you hold/shoot their weapon.
Long Answer: Most airsoft guns are very similar in stock form. As mentioned before, there are only a few technical factors to consider when it comes to choosing a gun. They are (1) barrel length, (2) battery size, (3) upgrade-ability, and to a lesser extent, (4) motor and (5) gun size. Your choice should also depend on (6) what sort of look you're going for.
(1) Barrel Length
The length of the inner barrel (the copper tube which the bb travels through) varies from gun to gun. The MP5K has a barrel only a few inches long, while the PSG1 has a much longer one. These relate back to their purpose, and help explain the effect the length has on the bb.
Generally speaking, the longer the barrel, the more distance, speed, and accuracy you will be able to get. The simple reason is that the bb spends a longer time speeding up, and stabilizing before it is released. HOWEVER.. It is important to point out that in stock form, these variances are very small. The M16 A2 is inherently more accurate than the MP5K simply because of the extra foot of barrel length present in the A2. At a later point, you can usually place a longer barrel into the gun, and hide the protruding end of the inner barrel under a silencer.
(2) Battery Size:
Batteries are usually located in the stock or fore grip of guns. Typically, if a gun has a full stock (ie non collapsible), it will hold a large battery. Guns like the MP5A5 or the M4 hold the battery (small sized) in the fore grip as they have no room in their stock. All these problems can be overcome however, through the use of an external battery or a custom made battery.
The size of battery your gun can hold will affect how many rounds you'll be able to fire before you have to recharge it. There are several kinds of batteries. The Small or SD battery, the Stick or AK battery, and the Large battery. Again, the type of battery taken in a gun can usually be found on a retailer’s page. Other than size, you also have to note how many milliamps (mah), and volts (v) the battery has. Small batteries usually have about 600mah, while large batteries run from 1500mah, to 3000mah. The standard voltage for stock guns is 8.4v, but some upgraded guns require a 9.6v or higher to help power the upgraded internals. As a basic measure, an average day with average temperature will yield about 1 bb per mah.
(3) Upgrade-ability:
If you want to change the internal or external appearance of your gun, you'll have to take this into account when you're looking at purchasing it. Most guns have many internal and external options for them allowing you to add flashlights, lasers, scopes, sights, metal bodies... the list goes on. In addition, they also have the ability to accept internal upgrades like heavier springs or stronger gears. The M4 and MP5 series tend to be the most upgradeable guns with a load of options available for each [LINK TO PAGES WITH UPGRADES]. Some guns like the Famas and Sig series are noted for not having many upgrades available at all. Take into account how you plan to use the weapon before spending your money.
(4) Motor Size:
There are 3 types of Motors made by Tokyo Marui (TM). The EG560, the EG700, and the EG1000. The EG560 is being phased out and they aren't seen as much anymore. The main difference in the motors is how much power then can bring to the compressing of the spring. The EG1000 being the most powerful in TM's line, has the ability to quickly compress the spring and therefore yield a higher rate of fire. In stock form, the difference between an EG700 and EG1000 can easily be heard. However, the only real reason you might NEED an EG1000 is if you're upgrades are extensive enough that an EG700 isn't providing enough power. They can easily be swapped out however, and therefore the problem isn't really existent.
(5) Gun Size:
This is something you'll really have to get out to games to understand. The guns are obviously different sizes, but this can affect your playing style. If a gun is too large, you can't effectively run around, or go into close quarters. Conversely, smaller guns will be less effective on a large open field. So keep in mind what sort of play style you have before you buy an SG1, or an MP5K. This can be remedied if you want to add a full stock and longer barrel to a gun for a field role, or wanted to add a collapsible stock so you could go inside. Again, this is largely a preference issue and there are things that can be done to alter the gun but it's best to pick one that suits you well if you're just starting out.
(6) The Look:
As listed above, you can see that most if not all of the difference in the guns can be negated through upgrades. And that even in stock form, there is little difference. This is what people mean when they say that all the guns are the same. So what it really comes down to is the look of the gun. Ultimately, pick something you like. Chances are it could be upgraded if you needed it to be. If you're trying to go for a certain look such as a SWAT Team member, or a U.S. Grunt, it's important that you pick the gun you feel fits that look best. If you can keep in mind the scheme/look you're going for, you'll spend a lot less money over time. That advice is from personal experience.
Sniper Rifles and Gas Blow Back (GBB) Pistols
As mentioned in the beginning, if this is you're first gun, you shouldn't get either of these. Sniping in airsoft is TREMENDOUSLY different than it is in real life, in movies, in video games, or in the imagination. It's also more expensive than an AEG in that fresh out of the box, the sniper rifle is no better than an AEG in range or power, and of course suffers limited rate of fire. It's very possible you could loose interest in the game if you started with a sniper rifle.
The same goes for a GBB. The suffer range deficiency, accuracy deficiency, and require gas. Most airsofters buy them for CQB or as a backup weapon, however they are by NO MEANS NECESSARY. Again, purchasing a GBB as your first gun will leave you severely disadvantaged on the field.
I hope this was of some help to you. Any questions or comments can be directed to meta@incountry.ca.
Welcome to airsoft! - Updated May 2, 2006
This guide is meant to assist airsoft players just starting out here in Canada. In it, you will find information on how to choose your first gun and as well, where to get it. Also included is a basic overview of Automatic Electric Guns (AEG's).
Contents
Post 1 - How to Choose a Gun (and other gun questions)
Post 2 - Where to Get a Gun (Also - Is airsoft illegal?)
Post 3 - A basic AEG overview
Post 4 - Weapon Category Comparison and FAQ
Post 5 - Eyewear and Protection
Post 6 - Age Issues Across Canada
Post 7 - General AEG and GBB Questions
Handy Links:
The Costs of Airsoft - http://www.sirairsoft.com/pricelist.htm
POST # 1
If you ask this discussion board which gun is best, you'll quickly find yourself in hostile territory. Why? Because many people before you have come on here searching for 'the best gun'.
Short Answer: There is no best gun. All guns are very similar in stock (un-upgraded) form. The only important factors to consider are barrel length (longer barrel provides longer range and accuracy), Battery size (larger battery size allows more play time), and upgrade-ability (some guns are easier to upgrade/modify than others). All these variables are displayed with the gun on major retailer pages. Other than that, it is simply an esthetic choice. If it's your FIRST gun, buy an AEG. If you buy a sniper rifle or Gas Blow Back without ever having played, you'll instantly find yourself outgunned. And since you're asking what the best gun is. You probably don't want that to happen. Best way to see the guns is to come out to a game. You don't have to play, and most people will let you hold/shoot their weapon.
Long Answer: Most airsoft guns are very similar in stock form. As mentioned before, there are only a few technical factors to consider when it comes to choosing a gun. They are (1) barrel length, (2) battery size, (3) upgrade-ability, and to a lesser extent, (4) motor and (5) gun size. Your choice should also depend on (6) what sort of look you're going for.
(1) Barrel Length
The length of the inner barrel (the copper tube which the bb travels through) varies from gun to gun. The MP5K has a barrel only a few inches long, while the PSG1 has a much longer one. These relate back to their purpose, and help explain the effect the length has on the bb.
Generally speaking, the longer the barrel, the more distance, speed, and accuracy you will be able to get. The simple reason is that the bb spends a longer time speeding up, and stabilizing before it is released. HOWEVER.. It is important to point out that in stock form, these variances are very small. The M16 A2 is inherently more accurate than the MP5K simply because of the extra foot of barrel length present in the A2. At a later point, you can usually place a longer barrel into the gun, and hide the protruding end of the inner barrel under a silencer.
(2) Battery Size:
Batteries are usually located in the stock or fore grip of guns. Typically, if a gun has a full stock (ie non collapsible), it will hold a large battery. Guns like the MP5A5 or the M4 hold the battery (small sized) in the fore grip as they have no room in their stock. All these problems can be overcome however, through the use of an external battery or a custom made battery.
The size of battery your gun can hold will affect how many rounds you'll be able to fire before you have to recharge it. There are several kinds of batteries. The Small or SD battery, the Stick or AK battery, and the Large battery. Again, the type of battery taken in a gun can usually be found on a retailer’s page. Other than size, you also have to note how many milliamps (mah), and volts (v) the battery has. Small batteries usually have about 600mah, while large batteries run from 1500mah, to 3000mah. The standard voltage for stock guns is 8.4v, but some upgraded guns require a 9.6v or higher to help power the upgraded internals. As a basic measure, an average day with average temperature will yield about 1 bb per mah.
(3) Upgrade-ability:
If you want to change the internal or external appearance of your gun, you'll have to take this into account when you're looking at purchasing it. Most guns have many internal and external options for them allowing you to add flashlights, lasers, scopes, sights, metal bodies... the list goes on. In addition, they also have the ability to accept internal upgrades like heavier springs or stronger gears. The M4 and MP5 series tend to be the most upgradeable guns with a load of options available for each [LINK TO PAGES WITH UPGRADES]. Some guns like the Famas and Sig series are noted for not having many upgrades available at all. Take into account how you plan to use the weapon before spending your money.
(4) Motor Size:
There are 3 types of Motors made by Tokyo Marui (TM). The EG560, the EG700, and the EG1000. The EG560 is being phased out and they aren't seen as much anymore. The main difference in the motors is how much power then can bring to the compressing of the spring. The EG1000 being the most powerful in TM's line, has the ability to quickly compress the spring and therefore yield a higher rate of fire. In stock form, the difference between an EG700 and EG1000 can easily be heard. However, the only real reason you might NEED an EG1000 is if you're upgrades are extensive enough that an EG700 isn't providing enough power. They can easily be swapped out however, and therefore the problem isn't really existent.
(5) Gun Size:
This is something you'll really have to get out to games to understand. The guns are obviously different sizes, but this can affect your playing style. If a gun is too large, you can't effectively run around, or go into close quarters. Conversely, smaller guns will be less effective on a large open field. So keep in mind what sort of play style you have before you buy an SG1, or an MP5K. This can be remedied if you want to add a full stock and longer barrel to a gun for a field role, or wanted to add a collapsible stock so you could go inside. Again, this is largely a preference issue and there are things that can be done to alter the gun but it's best to pick one that suits you well if you're just starting out.
(6) The Look:
As listed above, you can see that most if not all of the difference in the guns can be negated through upgrades. And that even in stock form, there is little difference. This is what people mean when they say that all the guns are the same. So what it really comes down to is the look of the gun. Ultimately, pick something you like. Chances are it could be upgraded if you needed it to be. If you're trying to go for a certain look such as a SWAT Team member, or a U.S. Grunt, it's important that you pick the gun you feel fits that look best. If you can keep in mind the scheme/look you're going for, you'll spend a lot less money over time. That advice is from personal experience.
Sniper Rifles and Gas Blow Back (GBB) Pistols
As mentioned in the beginning, if this is you're first gun, you shouldn't get either of these. Sniping in airsoft is TREMENDOUSLY different than it is in real life, in movies, in video games, or in the imagination. It's also more expensive than an AEG in that fresh out of the box, the sniper rifle is no better than an AEG in range or power, and of course suffers limited rate of fire. It's very possible you could loose interest in the game if you started with a sniper rifle.
The same goes for a GBB. The suffer range deficiency, accuracy deficiency, and require gas. Most airsofters buy them for CQB or as a backup weapon, however they are by NO MEANS NECESSARY. Again, purchasing a GBB as your first gun will leave you severely disadvantaged on the field.
I hope this was of some help to you. Any questions or comments can be directed to meta@incountry.ca.
_________________
.......................................Krebs Tactical Rifle.........................Bastardized P90 long........................Bastardized P90tr
bug- Mercenary Mulisha
- Number of posts: 633
Age: 37
Location: Brooks, AB
Registration date: 2008-05-25 
post #2 from Bravo
by bug on 27th May 2008, 18:57
POST # 2
This is yet another common question that comes up, but no one wants to answer. Now, they just send you here. Which might be how you found this post.
Short Answer:
In Canada. Used guns on the ASC board after being AGE VERIFIED, or on other Canadian forums, New guns from any of the Canadian retailers listed in the the drop down box on the top of the page.
Long Answer:
Airsoft is not legal in Canada, however it is not illegal either. Although the government's firearms act does make changes to the laws, the actual wording does not eliminate airsoft. Airsoft falls between the definition of a BB gun and a replica. Replicas are illegal, but are non firing. Airsoft fires something under 500fps, and there for is a bb gun, and not a firearm. Bascially, all this means is that Airsoft guns are in what is commonly referred to as the grey area.
There is still debate on how one can get the guns across the border. Some say you need licences, others say you don't. In fact, on the same day on this forums, there were posts complaining of siezed items, reassurances that many things can get through, and information reguarding the need/lack thereof for licences. Its a very confusing situation. However, you have to weigh the risks.. Just don't try to solve the problem by calling customs or writing them or what have you. We've had this problem for years now. Don't you think we've already tried that?
Why shouldn't you order from the U.S. or overseas? Well because you may very well loose your gun to siezure. Not only that, but with taxes, duty, shipping and brokerage fees, you're only really saving 50-100 dollars. At this point, you have to ask yourself. Do you want to loose your 250 USD? or pay an extra 50 Canadian to insure your gun gets to you?
Please note that if you do attempt to order a gun from over seas, and you do have it siezed, this board will delete any posts asking for help. We did warn you after all.
For those of you moving to Canada, Welcome! But you're guns probably won't get through the border. And trying to smuggle a weapon across these days could land you in jail, or worse (Body Cavity Search). You're best bet is to sell your gun, keep the parts you want (scopes, flashhiders, etc), and import just those.
It should be added that parts and other such accessories are usually ok to import. Your new scope or stock won't be stopped at customs, but the typical belief is that the more and more a part looks like a gun, the less likely it is to cross. Metal bodies would be the most likely to be siezed for example.
CAN YOU OWN AN AIRSOFT GUN?
Yes. In ontario you must be 18 years of age or older to purchase one, or have your parents purchase it for you. The Airsoft Initiative that is attempting to legalize our sport recommends that all gun sales be restricted to those 18 years of age and over. This is a general concensus by most players in Canada.
**Additions to cover my emails**
Some of you have been emailing me asking about the sport in more detail, in particular the legality of it. I'll do what I can to clarify here for you.
Airsoft is NOT Illegal, but is also NOT completely legal either. This is confusing, I'm aware but bare with me.
There is no actual LAW that says 'airsoft is illegal' but there are several laws that apply to certain aspects of the sport.
1) Replica weapons are outlawed - Since airsoft looks JUST like a real gun, in theory it is a replica.
2) However, replicas are NON-FIRING. Airsoft fires a projectile so therefore is not REALLY a replica.
3) Airsoft is not a firearm unless the projectile travels about 500 fps. However, guns can be upgraded to that .
4) Toy guns that look like real guns can NOT be sold to anyone under the age of 18 in ontario.
Confused yet? Don't worry. So are the police, customs, and us. Here's what you NEED to know:
1) If you take your gun out in public, you will be treated as if it is a real gun. This means that failing to comply with peace officer requests could end in you being SHOT.
2) Play ONLY in areas that are PRIVATE and that you have PERMISSION to use. This does NOT include parks, school yards, or government forests. These areas should not be visible to passers by. Do NOT use your backyard unless ALL your neighbours are aware of what's going on.
3) The people in power make the rules. If a police officer deems to confiscate your gun, he has that right. If customs choses to sieze your gun, they have that right. This isn't a consistant occurance, but when it happens there's really not much of a point you arguing about it. Especially if a police officer takes your gun. If he had the chance to take it from you, you probably weren't behaving properly with it anyways.
4) Airsoft is not illegal, but it IS in a very fragile state. Continuing negative public exposure can ruin it for EVERYONE. If you don't want to be responsible for having airsoft banned in Canada, be responsible and mature about your conduct. Treat the gun as a real one and chances are you won't have any problems.
This is yet another common question that comes up, but no one wants to answer. Now, they just send you here. Which might be how you found this post.
Short Answer:
In Canada. Used guns on the ASC board after being AGE VERIFIED, or on other Canadian forums, New guns from any of the Canadian retailers listed in the the drop down box on the top of the page.
Long Answer:
Airsoft is not legal in Canada, however it is not illegal either. Although the government's firearms act does make changes to the laws, the actual wording does not eliminate airsoft. Airsoft falls between the definition of a BB gun and a replica. Replicas are illegal, but are non firing. Airsoft fires something under 500fps, and there for is a bb gun, and not a firearm. Bascially, all this means is that Airsoft guns are in what is commonly referred to as the grey area.
There is still debate on how one can get the guns across the border. Some say you need licences, others say you don't. In fact, on the same day on this forums, there were posts complaining of siezed items, reassurances that many things can get through, and information reguarding the need/lack thereof for licences. Its a very confusing situation. However, you have to weigh the risks.. Just don't try to solve the problem by calling customs or writing them or what have you. We've had this problem for years now. Don't you think we've already tried that?
Why shouldn't you order from the U.S. or overseas? Well because you may very well loose your gun to siezure. Not only that, but with taxes, duty, shipping and brokerage fees, you're only really saving 50-100 dollars. At this point, you have to ask yourself. Do you want to loose your 250 USD? or pay an extra 50 Canadian to insure your gun gets to you?
Please note that if you do attempt to order a gun from over seas, and you do have it siezed, this board will delete any posts asking for help. We did warn you after all.
For those of you moving to Canada, Welcome! But you're guns probably won't get through the border. And trying to smuggle a weapon across these days could land you in jail, or worse (Body Cavity Search). You're best bet is to sell your gun, keep the parts you want (scopes, flashhiders, etc), and import just those.
It should be added that parts and other such accessories are usually ok to import. Your new scope or stock won't be stopped at customs, but the typical belief is that the more and more a part looks like a gun, the less likely it is to cross. Metal bodies would be the most likely to be siezed for example.
CAN YOU OWN AN AIRSOFT GUN?
Yes. In ontario you must be 18 years of age or older to purchase one, or have your parents purchase it for you. The Airsoft Initiative that is attempting to legalize our sport recommends that all gun sales be restricted to those 18 years of age and over. This is a general concensus by most players in Canada.
**Additions to cover my emails**
Some of you have been emailing me asking about the sport in more detail, in particular the legality of it. I'll do what I can to clarify here for you.
Airsoft is NOT Illegal, but is also NOT completely legal either. This is confusing, I'm aware but bare with me.
There is no actual LAW that says 'airsoft is illegal' but there are several laws that apply to certain aspects of the sport.
1) Replica weapons are outlawed - Since airsoft looks JUST like a real gun, in theory it is a replica.
2) However, replicas are NON-FIRING. Airsoft fires a projectile so therefore is not REALLY a replica.
3) Airsoft is not a firearm unless the projectile travels about 500 fps. However, guns can be upgraded to that .
4) Toy guns that look like real guns can NOT be sold to anyone under the age of 18 in ontario.
Confused yet? Don't worry. So are the police, customs, and us. Here's what you NEED to know:
1) If you take your gun out in public, you will be treated as if it is a real gun. This means that failing to comply with peace officer requests could end in you being SHOT.
2) Play ONLY in areas that are PRIVATE and that you have PERMISSION to use. This does NOT include parks, school yards, or government forests. These areas should not be visible to passers by. Do NOT use your backyard unless ALL your neighbours are aware of what's going on.
3) The people in power make the rules. If a police officer deems to confiscate your gun, he has that right. If customs choses to sieze your gun, they have that right. This isn't a consistant occurance, but when it happens there's really not much of a point you arguing about it. Especially if a police officer takes your gun. If he had the chance to take it from you, you probably weren't behaving properly with it anyways.
4) Airsoft is not illegal, but it IS in a very fragile state. Continuing negative public exposure can ruin it for EVERYONE. If you don't want to be responsible for having airsoft banned in Canada, be responsible and mature about your conduct. Treat the gun as a real one and chances are you won't have any problems.
_________________
.......................................Krebs Tactical Rifle.........................Bastardized P90 long........................Bastardized P90tr
bug- Mercenary Mulisha
- Number of posts: 633
Age: 37
Location: Brooks, AB
Registration date: 2008-05-25 -
POST # 3 from bravo
by bug on 27th May 2008, 18:58
POST # 3
FAQ by Yawn - patrick@dxpc.com
Contents of the AEG Overview
1 - What does AEG stand for?
2 - What are AEG's?
3 - Who makes AEG's, and who is the best company?
4 - What makes up an AEG?
5 - What affects the AEGs performance?
6 - What kind of battery is needed, and what are these terms?
7 - What affects accurace of an AEG?
8 - Do I need to upgrade my AEG? What are some pros and cons?
9 - How do I increase the ROF (rate of fire) in my AEG?
10 - How exactly does my AEG work?
11 - What is "Hop-Up"?
1 - What the heck does AEG stand for?
Automatic Electric Gun
2 - What exactly are AEGs?
AEGs are a type of Airsoft rifle. Almost all AEGs are 1:1 replicas of their real steel counterpart. They function almost the same, take down in just about the same way and to a layman, it looks damn real. They are either powered by compressed gas or electric battery, and shoot 6mm plastic pellets.
Historically, AEGs were never meant for skirmishing or milsim. Because of Japans very strict gun control laws, there was a large demand from collectors for 1:1 replicas of the real thing. That's why they are so incredibly detailed, even down to the trademarks.
3 - Who makes AEGs? And which company makes the best AEG?
For AEG rifles, there is only one industry standard name which every Airsofter trusts - Tokyo Mauri. A company based in Japan, they are the first and last word when it comes to making high quality and reliable AEGs. You can visit their website at http://www.tokyo-marui.co.jp/ If you buy Tokyo Marui, you basically can't go wrong.
There are also Taiwanese and Hong Kong manufacturers of AEGs, ICS http://www.icsbb.com/ and Classic Army http://www.classicarmy.com/. Typically the guns they manufacture are a far cry from the quality of Tokyo Mauri products. They are prone to mechanical failiure and also lack the quality control to produce a solid gun. However these guns also come in versions i.e. Version 2, Version 3 etc. With each new revision, the gun improves in quality and is less prone to error. Ironically the Japanese never really require more than one version to get it right. Sometimes you just can't beat products from the land of the rising sun. One feature of Taiwanese and Hong Kong manufacturers is that they come with metal bodies, which is definitely a bonus in realism and overall sturdiness.
Another Japanese manufacturer is TOP. They don't live up to the Japanese reputation, as their products are typically as buggy as their Taiwanese competitors. However TOP makes specialized guns, like the M249 and M60. You can't find any other manufacturer on the market making these models.
Airsoft Elite http://www.airsoftelite.com/ is an American brand which actually uses rebadged ICS products.
Lastly there are manufactureres which specialize in custom or limited production guns, like SystemA, Killer Studio etc. Although they do not produce in volume, their items are of the highest quality and performance, of course demanding the highest premium (typically > $1000 USD).
With all that said, for the typical Airsofter, Tokyo Marui is the brand to stick with.
4 - What makes up an AEG?
An AEG is made up of 2 parts, the gearbox and the power source (battery). With these two parts alone you can have a firing "gun" but it won't be pretty and it sure as hell won't be accurate. The rest (barrel, receiver, grip(s), stock) are basically the shell that holds the entire thing together. Sounds easy, but if you've ever tried taking an AEG apart, it's not that simple!
5 - What affects the AEGs performance? i.e. What will make it shoot harder and faster?
This is a question with an answer that can fill an entire FAQ
The simple answer is that a bigger battery (voltage, milliamps) and numerous gearbox upgrades can all attribute to a gun that shoots harder and faster than a stock gun.
6 - What kind of battery do I need? And what are all these terms voltage, milliamps etc.?
The following is taken from http://www.airsoftplayers.com/newbie/faq.asp
While an AEG will function on 7.2V, the nominal voltage for operation of TM AEG's is 8.4V. At 1.2V per cell, you'll see that this means you'll need, nominally, a 7-cell pack. With 8.4V, you can rest assured that you'll have more than sufficient juice to run your AEG at its utmost potential. So, what about increasing voltage? You do see a lot of up-voltage battery packs out there - 9.6V, 10.8V, or even the tremendous 12V battery packs. These will increase your ROF, but without proper precautions, especially with the latter two, you're like to do some damage to your internals. So, in a word, just stay with the 8.4V packs - there's really no need to increase your power until you start upgrading the internals of your AEG, which, as a newbie, you shouldn't be upgrading your AEG anyway…..
Now, what about how long your battery lasts? Well, this is a function of the mAh value. The larger the mAh value, the longer the battery will last. Typically, your 600 mAh batteries will last anywhere from 400 to 900 rounds. Why such a big range? Batteries are very sensitive to temperature, and the lower the ambient temperature, the shorter your battery will last. For example, the worst I've seen is a 8.4V 600 mAh "mini" pack that only managed to last 200 rounds before needing a recharge - but that's at a temperature of near 40 deg. F. Pretty darned cold! With a 1700 or higher mAh capacity battery, you can pretty much assume that you're going to be able to crank out over 1200 BB's.
There are many battery pack sizes, too. There's the flat "mini" along with its other "2/3 A" cell type sisters, the "stick" or "AK"-type, as well as the many custom-shaped packs designed for increased capacity that fit into stock locations. On the other hand, there's the "large" or "standard" sized "Sub-C" type cell packs. With the latter "Sub-C's" physically being much larger than the "mini's," many newbies are lead to ask if the physically larger battery packs will provide better performance. Again, as with motor types, unless you are specifically controlling to test for this "size" variable, you'll likely NOT notice a difference either in overall capacity or ROF when comparing a "large" battery with a "mini" that BOTH HAVE THE SAME VOLTAGE AND MAH values.
What does all this technical mumbo-jumbo mean? Basically, if you're considering a solid-stock AEG variant over its retractable or folding-stock variant solely based on the type of battery -- "large" vs. "mini" - you actually don't have to worry that much. A-sized cells are now available with up to 1700 mAh capacity, and there are "custom' shaped "mini" 2/3 A-sized packs for use in many applications. With such a pack, even the retractable-stock AEG's (which forces the battery to reside up front in the forend grip of the SMG/carbine) can have as much electrical power as their full-stock counterparts that use "large" packs. As such, unless you are seeking the ultimate in capacity (i.e. 2000 or 3000 mAh, which are, so far, only available with the Sub-C's), you can rest assured that your performance, overall, between your "mini" and a similarly rated "Sub-C" will be equal. You no longer have to decide on your choice of AEG's based on their battery capacities.
7 - Man the accuracy of my AEG sucks!
If you ever expected your Airsoft gun to perform like it's real steel counterpart, you need to rid yourself of that illusion immediately. Airsoft guns are not accurate out of the box. You can typically hit targets within center mass at about 30-40 feet. Beyond that the BB itself will lose power and drop, or be affected by the wind since it is very light.
There are three things that work together to affect the accuracy of your AEG - the barrel length, the power it shoots at, and the BB weight.
Barrel length is very important. Obviously the longer the barrel, the more accurate your gun. An increase barrel length can also add to muzzle velocity, typically 15-20 ft/s. Barrel diameter is also an important factor. The stock barrels from a Tokyo Marui gun have a diameter of 6.08mm. Aftermarket titanium or brass barrels have a length of 6.04mm. In theory, a tighter barrel restricts the movement of the BB inside the barrel, thus allowing for greater accuracy.
The energy of the BB also affects shooting accuracy. The more energy the BB has, the farther it will travel before dropping to the ground. Obviously, it will also arrive there faster
Lastly the most underestimated factor in accuracy - the weight of the BB. Because BBs are so light, typically 0.2g, they are EASILY affected by ANY wind. A heavier BB, say 0.25g or 0.3g is less affected by wind and will carry more mometum towards its target. The downside of this is that more energy is required to push the BB out of the barrel, so the muzzle velocity is reduced. This might actually be a good thing in keeping with field velocity rules (typically 400 fps).
8 - Do I need to upgrade my AEG? What are some pros and cons?
The following is taken from http://www.airsoftplayers.com/newbie/faq.asp
Almost every _newbie_ that gets into this sport want to start off with a fully upgraded AEG. Hard not to since this seems to be the big _trend_ nowadays. The moment you take apart your mechbox, your durability of the gun goes WAY DOWN, even if you don't change anything. The higher the upgrade, the more often you'll end up taking apart your gun to fix whatever.
Any AEG with any upgrade will be prone to failure in a very accelerated time span. As a newbie with likely only one AEG, the failure of such an upgraded piece will effectively put you out of the game, with no chance for a quick return. And if you're at a multi-day event for which you've traveled hundreds of miles for, this could indeed spell disaster. As such, having a stock AEG that has a known average durability and liability for failure, rather than having that factor being an "unknown" with an upgraded piece, will surely serve to somewhat settle your heart, not to mention improve your odds of not suffering such breakdowns. Additonally, once you have accumulated other, possibly upgraded AEG's to your growing aresenal, this first-purchase, internally stock AEG will undoubtedly become a trusty "backup" piece, which is always nice to have at hand.
Furthermore take the time to first allow you to get your heading in the sport prior to plunking down the dough for an expensive upgrade. Unless you play through several game-days with your new stock AEG, you're not going to really have a feel for how well it really performs or have a good idea of _exactly_ and _realistically_ what an upgraded AEG is capable, or not capable, of doing (here, it's simply best to ask players with upgraded pieces to kindly let you "test" their replica at the range - this way, you'll get first-hand experience).
Finally, what many newbies do not realize when they first start out is that many clubs, fields, and events impose strict limits with regards to velocity/hit-energy due to safety concerns. If you outright purchase an upgraded AEG that shoots a blistering 450 fps. with 0.25 gram BB's, but all the events that you are interested in attending only allow 350 fps. with 0.20 fps, then you've just wasted a lot of money; as well as caused yourself undue trouble.
9 - How do I increase the ROF (rate of fire) in my AEG?
The following is taken from http://www.airsoftplayers.com/newbie/faq.asp
Motor type is one of the major factors that will affect rate-of-fire (ROF). Honestly, while there are some differences in ROF performance based on motor type, unless you are doing a back-to-back or side-to-side comparison between two differently equipped AEG's, or are testing specifically for this variable (i.e. holding all other factors constant and "bench" testing the AEG in a lab-type situation/setup), you're NOT likely going to notice a difference. Let's put it this way. ANY of these AEG's are capable of spitting out a near constant stream of BB's at upwards of 800 rounds per minute. And if that's not enough for you to hose/suppress your target and keep their heads down, then you'd best spend the $3000 to get a replica minigun….. Of course, there are advantages to be had for having a higher ROF, but really, in field use during skirmishes, you more than likely will NOT notice this factor as based on application to the three motor types. And sure, when upgrading, this particular factor may be of some concern, but as a newbie, really, you shouldn't be worried about upgrading, anyway (more on this later).
10 - How exactly does my AEG work?
The battery powers a motor, and the motor turns a gear, the bevel gear, inside the mechbox. That gear turns another gear, the spur gear, which turns another gear, the sector gear, that has large teeth on half of it.
The teeth catch in the bottom of a piston, and push it back against a spring. When the gear cycles to the half with no teeth, the piston flies forwards, pushing air in the piston cylinder out through a nozzle.
The nozzle is parked right behind the bb, and the air the piston pushes, in turn pushes the bb out of the gun.
11 - What is "Hop-Up"?
Hop-up refers to the mechanism which applys a back-spin to the BB. As the BB spins, it creates a drag. There is air flow on both sides of the BB. But on one side of the BB, the air flow is the same direction as the air which is rushing past the BB. This has the effect of speeding up the air flow. On the other side, the air flow is reversed and is opposite the air rushing past the BB. This slows down the overall air flow on that side of the BB. The grater the velocity of the air, the less pressure it exerts. This means that the BB has more pressure on the side with the slower air flow. The uneven pressure causes the BB to move to one side, or to curve horizontally. Vertically, the trajectory of the BB is flat. It's a tradeoff between range and total accuracy.
An explanation of how "Hop-Up" works mechanically: There is a hole at the end of the barrel close to the mechbox, and a membrane that fits over that hole, called the bucking. A lever assembly, called the hop-up, pushes down on the membrane, causing the membrane to descend into the barrel, where the BB will hit it once it is fired. The BB, upon coming into contact with the membrane, developes the backspin.
FAQ by Yawn - patrick@dxpc.com
Contents of the AEG Overview
1 - What does AEG stand for?
2 - What are AEG's?
3 - Who makes AEG's, and who is the best company?
4 - What makes up an AEG?
5 - What affects the AEGs performance?
6 - What kind of battery is needed, and what are these terms?
7 - What affects accurace of an AEG?
8 - Do I need to upgrade my AEG? What are some pros and cons?
9 - How do I increase the ROF (rate of fire) in my AEG?
10 - How exactly does my AEG work?
11 - What is "Hop-Up"?
1 - What the heck does AEG stand for?
Automatic Electric Gun
2 - What exactly are AEGs?
AEGs are a type of Airsoft rifle. Almost all AEGs are 1:1 replicas of their real steel counterpart. They function almost the same, take down in just about the same way and to a layman, it looks damn real. They are either powered by compressed gas or electric battery, and shoot 6mm plastic pellets.
Historically, AEGs were never meant for skirmishing or milsim. Because of Japans very strict gun control laws, there was a large demand from collectors for 1:1 replicas of the real thing. That's why they are so incredibly detailed, even down to the trademarks.
3 - Who makes AEGs? And which company makes the best AEG?
For AEG rifles, there is only one industry standard name which every Airsofter trusts - Tokyo Mauri. A company based in Japan, they are the first and last word when it comes to making high quality and reliable AEGs. You can visit their website at http://www.tokyo-marui.co.jp/ If you buy Tokyo Marui, you basically can't go wrong.
There are also Taiwanese and Hong Kong manufacturers of AEGs, ICS http://www.icsbb.com/ and Classic Army http://www.classicarmy.com/. Typically the guns they manufacture are a far cry from the quality of Tokyo Mauri products. They are prone to mechanical failiure and also lack the quality control to produce a solid gun. However these guns also come in versions i.e. Version 2, Version 3 etc. With each new revision, the gun improves in quality and is less prone to error. Ironically the Japanese never really require more than one version to get it right. Sometimes you just can't beat products from the land of the rising sun. One feature of Taiwanese and Hong Kong manufacturers is that they come with metal bodies, which is definitely a bonus in realism and overall sturdiness.
Another Japanese manufacturer is TOP. They don't live up to the Japanese reputation, as their products are typically as buggy as their Taiwanese competitors. However TOP makes specialized guns, like the M249 and M60. You can't find any other manufacturer on the market making these models.
Airsoft Elite http://www.airsoftelite.com/ is an American brand which actually uses rebadged ICS products.
Lastly there are manufactureres which specialize in custom or limited production guns, like SystemA, Killer Studio etc. Although they do not produce in volume, their items are of the highest quality and performance, of course demanding the highest premium (typically > $1000 USD).
With all that said, for the typical Airsofter, Tokyo Marui is the brand to stick with.
4 - What makes up an AEG?
An AEG is made up of 2 parts, the gearbox and the power source (battery). With these two parts alone you can have a firing "gun" but it won't be pretty and it sure as hell won't be accurate. The rest (barrel, receiver, grip(s), stock) are basically the shell that holds the entire thing together. Sounds easy, but if you've ever tried taking an AEG apart, it's not that simple!
5 - What affects the AEGs performance? i.e. What will make it shoot harder and faster?
This is a question with an answer that can fill an entire FAQ
The simple answer is that a bigger battery (voltage, milliamps) and numerous gearbox upgrades can all attribute to a gun that shoots harder and faster than a stock gun.
6 - What kind of battery do I need? And what are all these terms voltage, milliamps etc.?
The following is taken from http://www.airsoftplayers.com/newbie/faq.asp
While an AEG will function on 7.2V, the nominal voltage for operation of TM AEG's is 8.4V. At 1.2V per cell, you'll see that this means you'll need, nominally, a 7-cell pack. With 8.4V, you can rest assured that you'll have more than sufficient juice to run your AEG at its utmost potential. So, what about increasing voltage? You do see a lot of up-voltage battery packs out there - 9.6V, 10.8V, or even the tremendous 12V battery packs. These will increase your ROF, but without proper precautions, especially with the latter two, you're like to do some damage to your internals. So, in a word, just stay with the 8.4V packs - there's really no need to increase your power until you start upgrading the internals of your AEG, which, as a newbie, you shouldn't be upgrading your AEG anyway…..
Now, what about how long your battery lasts? Well, this is a function of the mAh value. The larger the mAh value, the longer the battery will last. Typically, your 600 mAh batteries will last anywhere from 400 to 900 rounds. Why such a big range? Batteries are very sensitive to temperature, and the lower the ambient temperature, the shorter your battery will last. For example, the worst I've seen is a 8.4V 600 mAh "mini" pack that only managed to last 200 rounds before needing a recharge - but that's at a temperature of near 40 deg. F. Pretty darned cold! With a 1700 or higher mAh capacity battery, you can pretty much assume that you're going to be able to crank out over 1200 BB's.
There are many battery pack sizes, too. There's the flat "mini" along with its other "2/3 A" cell type sisters, the "stick" or "AK"-type, as well as the many custom-shaped packs designed for increased capacity that fit into stock locations. On the other hand, there's the "large" or "standard" sized "Sub-C" type cell packs. With the latter "Sub-C's" physically being much larger than the "mini's," many newbies are lead to ask if the physically larger battery packs will provide better performance. Again, as with motor types, unless you are specifically controlling to test for this "size" variable, you'll likely NOT notice a difference either in overall capacity or ROF when comparing a "large" battery with a "mini" that BOTH HAVE THE SAME VOLTAGE AND MAH values.
What does all this technical mumbo-jumbo mean? Basically, if you're considering a solid-stock AEG variant over its retractable or folding-stock variant solely based on the type of battery -- "large" vs. "mini" - you actually don't have to worry that much. A-sized cells are now available with up to 1700 mAh capacity, and there are "custom' shaped "mini" 2/3 A-sized packs for use in many applications. With such a pack, even the retractable-stock AEG's (which forces the battery to reside up front in the forend grip of the SMG/carbine) can have as much electrical power as their full-stock counterparts that use "large" packs. As such, unless you are seeking the ultimate in capacity (i.e. 2000 or 3000 mAh, which are, so far, only available with the Sub-C's), you can rest assured that your performance, overall, between your "mini" and a similarly rated "Sub-C" will be equal. You no longer have to decide on your choice of AEG's based on their battery capacities.
7 - Man the accuracy of my AEG sucks!
If you ever expected your Airsoft gun to perform like it's real steel counterpart, you need to rid yourself of that illusion immediately. Airsoft guns are not accurate out of the box. You can typically hit targets within center mass at about 30-40 feet. Beyond that the BB itself will lose power and drop, or be affected by the wind since it is very light.
There are three things that work together to affect the accuracy of your AEG - the barrel length, the power it shoots at, and the BB weight.
Barrel length is very important. Obviously the longer the barrel, the more accurate your gun. An increase barrel length can also add to muzzle velocity, typically 15-20 ft/s. Barrel diameter is also an important factor. The stock barrels from a Tokyo Marui gun have a diameter of 6.08mm. Aftermarket titanium or brass barrels have a length of 6.04mm. In theory, a tighter barrel restricts the movement of the BB inside the barrel, thus allowing for greater accuracy.
The energy of the BB also affects shooting accuracy. The more energy the BB has, the farther it will travel before dropping to the ground. Obviously, it will also arrive there faster
Lastly the most underestimated factor in accuracy - the weight of the BB. Because BBs are so light, typically 0.2g, they are EASILY affected by ANY wind. A heavier BB, say 0.25g or 0.3g is less affected by wind and will carry more mometum towards its target. The downside of this is that more energy is required to push the BB out of the barrel, so the muzzle velocity is reduced. This might actually be a good thing in keeping with field velocity rules (typically 400 fps).
8 - Do I need to upgrade my AEG? What are some pros and cons?
The following is taken from http://www.airsoftplayers.com/newbie/faq.asp
Almost every _newbie_ that gets into this sport want to start off with a fully upgraded AEG. Hard not to since this seems to be the big _trend_ nowadays. The moment you take apart your mechbox, your durability of the gun goes WAY DOWN, even if you don't change anything. The higher the upgrade, the more often you'll end up taking apart your gun to fix whatever.
Any AEG with any upgrade will be prone to failure in a very accelerated time span. As a newbie with likely only one AEG, the failure of such an upgraded piece will effectively put you out of the game, with no chance for a quick return. And if you're at a multi-day event for which you've traveled hundreds of miles for, this could indeed spell disaster. As such, having a stock AEG that has a known average durability and liability for failure, rather than having that factor being an "unknown" with an upgraded piece, will surely serve to somewhat settle your heart, not to mention improve your odds of not suffering such breakdowns. Additonally, once you have accumulated other, possibly upgraded AEG's to your growing aresenal, this first-purchase, internally stock AEG will undoubtedly become a trusty "backup" piece, which is always nice to have at hand.
Furthermore take the time to first allow you to get your heading in the sport prior to plunking down the dough for an expensive upgrade. Unless you play through several game-days with your new stock AEG, you're not going to really have a feel for how well it really performs or have a good idea of _exactly_ and _realistically_ what an upgraded AEG is capable, or not capable, of doing (here, it's simply best to ask players with upgraded pieces to kindly let you "test" their replica at the range - this way, you'll get first-hand experience).
Finally, what many newbies do not realize when they first start out is that many clubs, fields, and events impose strict limits with regards to velocity/hit-energy due to safety concerns. If you outright purchase an upgraded AEG that shoots a blistering 450 fps. with 0.25 gram BB's, but all the events that you are interested in attending only allow 350 fps. with 0.20 fps, then you've just wasted a lot of money; as well as caused yourself undue trouble.
9 - How do I increase the ROF (rate of fire) in my AEG?
The following is taken from http://www.airsoftplayers.com/newbie/faq.asp
Motor type is one of the major factors that will affect rate-of-fire (ROF). Honestly, while there are some differences in ROF performance based on motor type, unless you are doing a back-to-back or side-to-side comparison between two differently equipped AEG's, or are testing specifically for this variable (i.e. holding all other factors constant and "bench" testing the AEG in a lab-type situation/setup), you're NOT likely going to notice a difference. Let's put it this way. ANY of these AEG's are capable of spitting out a near constant stream of BB's at upwards of 800 rounds per minute. And if that's not enough for you to hose/suppress your target and keep their heads down, then you'd best spend the $3000 to get a replica minigun….. Of course, there are advantages to be had for having a higher ROF, but really, in field use during skirmishes, you more than likely will NOT notice this factor as based on application to the three motor types. And sure, when upgrading, this particular factor may be of some concern, but as a newbie, really, you shouldn't be worried about upgrading, anyway (more on this later).
10 - How exactly does my AEG work?
The battery powers a motor, and the motor turns a gear, the bevel gear, inside the mechbox. That gear turns another gear, the spur gear, which turns another gear, the sector gear, that has large teeth on half of it.
The teeth catch in the bottom of a piston, and push it back against a spring. When the gear cycles to the half with no teeth, the piston flies forwards, pushing air in the piston cylinder out through a nozzle.
The nozzle is parked right behind the bb, and the air the piston pushes, in turn pushes the bb out of the gun.
11 - What is "Hop-Up"?
Hop-up refers to the mechanism which applys a back-spin to the BB. As the BB spins, it creates a drag. There is air flow on both sides of the BB. But on one side of the BB, the air flow is the same direction as the air which is rushing past the BB. This has the effect of speeding up the air flow. On the other side, the air flow is reversed and is opposite the air rushing past the BB. This slows down the overall air flow on that side of the BB. The grater the velocity of the air, the less pressure it exerts. This means that the BB has more pressure on the side with the slower air flow. The uneven pressure causes the BB to move to one side, or to curve horizontally. Vertically, the trajectory of the BB is flat. It's a tradeoff between range and total accuracy.
An explanation of how "Hop-Up" works mechanically: There is a hole at the end of the barrel close to the mechbox, and a membrane that fits over that hole, called the bucking. A lever assembly, called the hop-up, pushes down on the membrane, causing the membrane to descend into the barrel, where the BB will hit it once it is fired. The BB, upon coming into contact with the membrane, developes the backspin.
_________________
.......................................Krebs Tactical Rifle.........................Bastardized P90 long........................Bastardized P90tr
bug- Mercenary Mulisha
- Number of posts: 633
Age: 37
Location: Brooks, AB
Registration date: 2008-05-25 -
Post #4 form Bravo
by bug on 27th May 2008, 18:58
Post #4
Another frequently asked question on the discussion board has to do with different categories of weapons, what they are, and how they compare to others. This brief FAQ hopes to eliminate the need to ask these questions in the general section.
Weapon Categories:
1) EBB (Electric Blow Back), Mini AEG's, and Boys Series
2) Springers and Spring Shotguns
3) NBB (Non Blow Back)
4) GBB (Gas Blow Back)
5) AEG (Automatic Electric Gun)
6) Sniper Rifles (Spring Powered)
1) The EBB, Mini AEG's, and Boys Series Weapons
Price Range: ???
Popular Companies: Tokyo Marui
Power: Minimal
Uses: Living Room Combat
Electric Blow backs were developed by Tokyo Marui as an alternative to expensive Gas blow back weapons. They are plastic, powered by a set of AA batteries and have a small thin magazine in the grip of the weapon. When the trigger is pulled, the batteries compress a spring and release it, firing the BB, and then automatically move the slide back to simulate a blow back. These guns have minimal power and are not useful for anything other than for entertainment indoors. They are not useful for skirmishes. (As a note: I have seen a player fire an EBB into his bare hand at point blank range and not flinch.)
Mini AEG's are similar in that they are powered by standard batteries. These weapons are scaled down versions of their bigger AEG cousins. Unlike the larger versions however, they do not have removable magazines or metal parts. These fire in fully automatic mode, but similarly have only enough power to sustain living room combat.
TM 'Boys Series' AEG's are about 3/4 the size of the real steel weapon they are copying although they lack the functionality of the AEG versions such complete takedown or various removeable parts. They are run in a similar manner to the the EBB's and Mini AEG's in that they utilize several AA batteries as the power source. Not designed for use in large games against AEG's, the TM Boys Series is an acceptable weapon for livingroom combat.
**For Upgrade Info: see note below 'Springers' section
2) Springers
Price Range: 20-100 CAD, Shotguns: 300-400 CAD
Popular Companies: Tokyo Marui, YP, KSC, HFC, UHC, Academy
Power: Minimal - Low
Uses: Living Room Combat, Back up Weapon (Shotguns are sometimes primary weapons)
Springers are another popular form of inexpensive weapon. Created by companies such as Tokyo Marui (considered top of the line for springer weapons), they can be a viable alternative to expensive gas blow backs as side arms. Made of plastic, many models are available. Desert Eagles, Berettas, Glocks, and even MP5 and M16 Series weapons have been produced in springer variants. Most models have magazines that are very similar to the real steel versions. They require you cock the weapon before each shot which compresses a spring to launch the BB. For most weapons in this class, you get what you pay for. Although springers from TM are more expensive, they are also more reliable and powerful than those from other manufacturers. Frequently they are used in winter combat where it is too cold to use gas guns. Also popular for use as a side arm. Springers can leave welts and superior to EBB's and Mini's in firepower. However, for most players, they will not allow you to compete effectively against AEG's. These weapons frequently do not have slide locks, and safeties vary in location and function. Springers are NOT to be mistaken for sniper rifles.
Spring shotguns from TM are sometimes used on the field and in CQB. Since most shotguns require the pumping of the slide to load the next round into the chamber, the spring versions are not inacurate. The TM shotguns have 3 barrels in a triangular formation inside the single outter barrel. When pumped, 3 rounds are loaded (1 into each barrel) from the shotgun shell-shaped magazine (which carries 30 rounds). When the trigger is pulled, one BB is launched from each barrel. They often travel long distances and are fairly accurate. Only TM shotguns are considered well built. Reports have come back on other shotguns of BB's being shot clean through the reciever. Although they are more powerful/useful than other springers when it comes to a skirmish, they still leave you manually reloading shells and firing only as fast as you can pump.
**Upgrading Springers, Mini's, or Boys Series Weapons: These weapons were not designed for field play against AEG's. With that in mind, they are not designed to be upgradeable either. These weapons are difficult to take apart and modify and should only be done if you are mechanically inclined or don't mind losing the weapon if it no longer functions after reassembly. For those of you who are crazy enough to try, DonP at Unconventional Airsoft frequently delves into the world of wierd and perverted, strictly airsoft speaking of course.
3) NBB (Non Blow Backs)
Price Range: ???
Popular Companies: Tokyo Marui
Power: Low - Moderate
Uses: Sidearm
As the name implies, these weapons have no blowback action. Identical in most respects to GBB's, these guns use a magazine which holds BB's in one section, and gas in another. The magazines resemble those of real steel weapons. When the trigger is pulled, the weapon fires off one round and automatically loads the next, however the slide does NOT blow back. These are semi automatic weapons. Although they are not seen frequently, they do see use as sidearms. The general rumour is that the speed and power of these weapons slightly exceeds those of their Blow back counterparts as minimal gas is used to cycle to the next round. These will not allow most players to compete effectively in a skirmish.
4) GBB - Gas Blow Back
Price Range: 150-500 CAD
Popular Companies: Western Arms, Tokyo Marui, KSC, Maruzen
Power: Low-Moderate (Upgradeable to Average)
Uses: Sidearm, Primary
Gas Blow Backs are one of the popular forms of weapons available. They are also one of the most realistic forms of airsoft weapons as they function on principles similar to real firearms. Although most GBB's are pistols, submachine guns and shotguns are also available. Most operate on a similar system: Gas and BB's are held in the same magazine. When the trigger is pulled, the BB is fired and the slide/bolt flies back, then shoots forward to load the next round. This can occur in a semi automatic, or fully automatic mode. With most of these weapons, when the magazine is empty the slide/bolt will lock back. Western Arms (WA)arguably makes some of the best GBB handguns however they are limited in variety to Colt and Beretta styles/variants and are typically the upper end of the price spectrum. KSC has been called the workhorse GBB by some as they are reliable, resonably priced, and come in a variety of styles. Other companies are not to be discounted however as many weapons superior to the WA and KSC guns have been developed by alternate manufacturers, and other brands of guns such as the Glocks aren't produced by WA. Uses for these weapons vary almost as much as the styles. However they are not recommended as a primary weapon as they leave you purchasing gas and expensive magazines.
5) AEG - Automatic Electric Gun
Price Range: 250-600 CAD
Popular Companies: Tokyo Marui, Classic Army, Top
Power: Average - Strong (Upgradeable to Extreme)
Uses: Anything EXCEPT livingroom combat.
The bread and butter of airsoft is the AEG. It is the backbone of virtually every game played and balances a combination of cost effectiveness, firepower, and usefullness. AEG's use a battery to run a motor which compresses a spring. This spring then releases forcing a piston forward. It compresses air which pushes the BB out of the barrel. AEG's fire in semi or fully automatic modes usually selected by a selector switch on the gun. Magazines are removeable and relatively inexpensive to purchase. Tokyo Marui remains unmatched in their domination of the AEG market as they produce reliable and realistic weapons of many varieties. There are no AEG pistols, but most rifles, submachine guns, and heavy machine guns seen in movies exist in airsoft form. If you're just starting out, this is the best buy possible because it will allow you to get a feel for how the game is played. Power levels exceed EBBs, NBBs, Springers, and most GBB's. Guns can be upgraded to extreme power levels, but no one will play with you. Many options such as scopes, different stocks, and metal bodies can be applied to an AEG which makes the appearance vary from custom gun to custom gun.
6) Sniper Rifles (Spring Powered)
Price Range: 400-800+ CAD
Popular Companies: Maruzen, Sun Project
Power: Average - Strong (Upgradeable to Extreme)
Uses: Special
Although there are electric and gas versions of sniper rifles, the most common is the spring version. These weapons use a bolt to pull back a spring which is released when the trigger is pulled. Similar to springers, they will only fire one round per bolt pull. Rounds come from a magazine similar to those used in real weapons. Popular models of the spring sniper rifle are the APS and the M41. Again, others exist, but you get what you pay for. The power of these weapons in stock form is comparable to those of the AEG. Range is also similar to those of an AEG. However in an upgraded form an in the right hands, the sniper rifle can prove to be a accurate and powerful weapon. Using a sniper rifle in a skirmish can be futile as the user is automatically outgunned by the AEG users. The expense in owning one of these weapons as well as upgrading it to the appropriate level for sniper use means that its a difficult goal for a new user to obtain.
** Sniping in Airsoft: Understand that unless you have mastered the arts of hiding, stealthy movement, and percision weapon upgrade/maintanance, sniping is virtually useless in an average game. This is not a challenge, it is a warning. Keep in mind that most playing fields are open, and games last only a short time: Hardly enough time or cover for a sniper to be effective. In addition, not only are you INSTANTLY outgunned by virtually every player on the field, but airsoft sniper rifles, like ALL airsoft weapons.. are RARELY IF EVER one shot, one kill weapons. Newbies should NOT buy a sniper rifle. If you do, and end up quitting the sport because it's not fun or you keep dieing, don't say I didn't warn you.
Another frequently asked question on the discussion board has to do with different categories of weapons, what they are, and how they compare to others. This brief FAQ hopes to eliminate the need to ask these questions in the general section.
Weapon Categories:
1) EBB (Electric Blow Back), Mini AEG's, and Boys Series
2) Springers and Spring Shotguns
3) NBB (Non Blow Back)
4) GBB (Gas Blow Back)
5) AEG (Automatic Electric Gun)
6) Sniper Rifles (Spring Powered)
1) The EBB, Mini AEG's, and Boys Series Weapons
Price Range: ???
Popular Companies: Tokyo Marui
Power: Minimal
Uses: Living Room Combat
Electric Blow backs were developed by Tokyo Marui as an alternative to expensive Gas blow back weapons. They are plastic, powered by a set of AA batteries and have a small thin magazine in the grip of the weapon. When the trigger is pulled, the batteries compress a spring and release it, firing the BB, and then automatically move the slide back to simulate a blow back. These guns have minimal power and are not useful for anything other than for entertainment indoors. They are not useful for skirmishes. (As a note: I have seen a player fire an EBB into his bare hand at point blank range and not flinch.)
Mini AEG's are similar in that they are powered by standard batteries. These weapons are scaled down versions of their bigger AEG cousins. Unlike the larger versions however, they do not have removable magazines or metal parts. These fire in fully automatic mode, but similarly have only enough power to sustain living room combat.
TM 'Boys Series' AEG's are about 3/4 the size of the real steel weapon they are copying although they lack the functionality of the AEG versions such complete takedown or various removeable parts. They are run in a similar manner to the the EBB's and Mini AEG's in that they utilize several AA batteries as the power source. Not designed for use in large games against AEG's, the TM Boys Series is an acceptable weapon for livingroom combat.
**For Upgrade Info: see note below 'Springers' section
2) Springers
Price Range: 20-100 CAD, Shotguns: 300-400 CAD
Popular Companies: Tokyo Marui, YP, KSC, HFC, UHC, Academy
Power: Minimal - Low
Uses: Living Room Combat, Back up Weapon (Shotguns are sometimes primary weapons)
Springers are another popular form of inexpensive weapon. Created by companies such as Tokyo Marui (considered top of the line for springer weapons), they can be a viable alternative to expensive gas blow backs as side arms. Made of plastic, many models are available. Desert Eagles, Berettas, Glocks, and even MP5 and M16 Series weapons have been produced in springer variants. Most models have magazines that are very similar to the real steel versions. They require you cock the weapon before each shot which compresses a spring to launch the BB. For most weapons in this class, you get what you pay for. Although springers from TM are more expensive, they are also more reliable and powerful than those from other manufacturers. Frequently they are used in winter combat where it is too cold to use gas guns. Also popular for use as a side arm. Springers can leave welts and superior to EBB's and Mini's in firepower. However, for most players, they will not allow you to compete effectively against AEG's. These weapons frequently do not have slide locks, and safeties vary in location and function. Springers are NOT to be mistaken for sniper rifles.
Spring shotguns from TM are sometimes used on the field and in CQB. Since most shotguns require the pumping of the slide to load the next round into the chamber, the spring versions are not inacurate. The TM shotguns have 3 barrels in a triangular formation inside the single outter barrel. When pumped, 3 rounds are loaded (1 into each barrel) from the shotgun shell-shaped magazine (which carries 30 rounds). When the trigger is pulled, one BB is launched from each barrel. They often travel long distances and are fairly accurate. Only TM shotguns are considered well built. Reports have come back on other shotguns of BB's being shot clean through the reciever. Although they are more powerful/useful than other springers when it comes to a skirmish, they still leave you manually reloading shells and firing only as fast as you can pump.
**Upgrading Springers, Mini's, or Boys Series Weapons: These weapons were not designed for field play against AEG's. With that in mind, they are not designed to be upgradeable either. These weapons are difficult to take apart and modify and should only be done if you are mechanically inclined or don't mind losing the weapon if it no longer functions after reassembly. For those of you who are crazy enough to try, DonP at Unconventional Airsoft frequently delves into the world of wierd and perverted, strictly airsoft speaking of course.
3) NBB (Non Blow Backs)
Price Range: ???
Popular Companies: Tokyo Marui
Power: Low - Moderate
Uses: Sidearm
As the name implies, these weapons have no blowback action. Identical in most respects to GBB's, these guns use a magazine which holds BB's in one section, and gas in another. The magazines resemble those of real steel weapons. When the trigger is pulled, the weapon fires off one round and automatically loads the next, however the slide does NOT blow back. These are semi automatic weapons. Although they are not seen frequently, they do see use as sidearms. The general rumour is that the speed and power of these weapons slightly exceeds those of their Blow back counterparts as minimal gas is used to cycle to the next round. These will not allow most players to compete effectively in a skirmish.
4) GBB - Gas Blow Back
Price Range: 150-500 CAD
Popular Companies: Western Arms, Tokyo Marui, KSC, Maruzen
Power: Low-Moderate (Upgradeable to Average)
Uses: Sidearm, Primary
Gas Blow Backs are one of the popular forms of weapons available. They are also one of the most realistic forms of airsoft weapons as they function on principles similar to real firearms. Although most GBB's are pistols, submachine guns and shotguns are also available. Most operate on a similar system: Gas and BB's are held in the same magazine. When the trigger is pulled, the BB is fired and the slide/bolt flies back, then shoots forward to load the next round. This can occur in a semi automatic, or fully automatic mode. With most of these weapons, when the magazine is empty the slide/bolt will lock back. Western Arms (WA)arguably makes some of the best GBB handguns however they are limited in variety to Colt and Beretta styles/variants and are typically the upper end of the price spectrum. KSC has been called the workhorse GBB by some as they are reliable, resonably priced, and come in a variety of styles. Other companies are not to be discounted however as many weapons superior to the WA and KSC guns have been developed by alternate manufacturers, and other brands of guns such as the Glocks aren't produced by WA. Uses for these weapons vary almost as much as the styles. However they are not recommended as a primary weapon as they leave you purchasing gas and expensive magazines.
5) AEG - Automatic Electric Gun
Price Range: 250-600 CAD
Popular Companies: Tokyo Marui, Classic Army, Top
Power: Average - Strong (Upgradeable to Extreme)
Uses: Anything EXCEPT livingroom combat.
The bread and butter of airsoft is the AEG. It is the backbone of virtually every game played and balances a combination of cost effectiveness, firepower, and usefullness. AEG's use a battery to run a motor which compresses a spring. This spring then releases forcing a piston forward. It compresses air which pushes the BB out of the barrel. AEG's fire in semi or fully automatic modes usually selected by a selector switch on the gun. Magazines are removeable and relatively inexpensive to purchase. Tokyo Marui remains unmatched in their domination of the AEG market as they produce reliable and realistic weapons of many varieties. There are no AEG pistols, but most rifles, submachine guns, and heavy machine guns seen in movies exist in airsoft form. If you're just starting out, this is the best buy possible because it will allow you to get a feel for how the game is played. Power levels exceed EBBs, NBBs, Springers, and most GBB's. Guns can be upgraded to extreme power levels, but no one will play with you. Many options such as scopes, different stocks, and metal bodies can be applied to an AEG which makes the appearance vary from custom gun to custom gun.
6) Sniper Rifles (Spring Powered)
Price Range: 400-800+ CAD
Popular Companies: Maruzen, Sun Project
Power: Average - Strong (Upgradeable to Extreme)
Uses: Special
Although there are electric and gas versions of sniper rifles, the most common is the spring version. These weapons use a bolt to pull back a spring which is released when the trigger is pulled. Similar to springers, they will only fire one round per bolt pull. Rounds come from a magazine similar to those used in real weapons. Popular models of the spring sniper rifle are the APS and the M41. Again, others exist, but you get what you pay for. The power of these weapons in stock form is comparable to those of the AEG. Range is also similar to those of an AEG. However in an upgraded form an in the right hands, the sniper rifle can prove to be a accurate and powerful weapon. Using a sniper rifle in a skirmish can be futile as the user is automatically outgunned by the AEG users. The expense in owning one of these weapons as well as upgrading it to the appropriate level for sniper use means that its a difficult goal for a new user to obtain.
** Sniping in Airsoft: Understand that unless you have mastered the arts of hiding, stealthy movement, and percision weapon upgrade/maintanance, sniping is virtually useless in an average game. This is not a challenge, it is a warning. Keep in mind that most playing fields are open, and games last only a short time: Hardly enough time or cover for a sniper to be effective. In addition, not only are you INSTANTLY outgunned by virtually every player on the field, but airsoft sniper rifles, like ALL airsoft weapons.. are RARELY IF EVER one shot, one kill weapons. Newbies should NOT buy a sniper rifle. If you do, and end up quitting the sport because it's not fun or you keep dieing, don't say I didn't warn you.
_________________
.......................................Krebs Tactical Rifle.........................Bastardized P90 long........................Bastardized P90tr
bug- Mercenary Mulisha
- Number of posts: 633
Age: 37
Location: Brooks, AB
Registration date: 2008-05-25 -
post #5 from Bravo* do to team rules Spartans must wear bolistic goggles*
by bug on 27th May 2008, 19:00
Post #5 - Eyewear and Protection
In reality, there are only 3 things you need to play airsoft. One is a complete gun with battery and magazine, Two is ammunition, and the Third is Eye protection. I dont know about you, but I've played games with unarmed hostages/spectators before, and they were wearing eye protection. My guess is that it's the most important. What should you use for eye protection?
Short Answer
Any paintball approved goggle, airsoft approved goggle, or tactical eyewear that seals around your eyes. It's up to the field owner what can be used, but there should be no exception to the above. DO NOT USE SKI GOGGLES. DO NOT USE SHOP GLASSES.
Long Answer
There are several categories of eyewear to choose from and several factors to consider when making your choice.
When choosing a pair of goggles, there are a few things you should take into consideration. The first of which being, 'Who will let me play with these goggles' . As it stands in Southern Ontario, most if not all paintball fields that airsofters frequent require you to wear paintball approved goggles. These are the same goggles the paintballers wear when out at their games. Although the field owner does not need to justify this, the main reasons are that you may be struck by stray paintballs, or that their insurance does not cover 'non paintball approved' eyewear. With that in mind, it's safe to say that your first pair of goggles should be paintball approved. This will allow you to participate at games held at paintball fields. But just incase, check with your local field owner for details on what they require.
Tactical goggles, such as the ESS protective eyewear systems, and the Bolle tactical line are not usually allowed at paintball fields. However, most private fields or other venues will approve of these goggle types. Reasoning behind this is that a) there are no 'stray paintballs' and b) they are tactically rated and therefore acceptable for a low impact projectile like airsoft.
Another factor to consider when purchasing your goggles is fog protection. To dispell a myth, there are NO fogproof goggles. There will be fog or condensation in virtually any goggle at some point depending on the conditions. Fog is caused by small droplets of moisture condensing on a surface that is colder than the air around it. The air near your face under the goggles is or can be substantially warmer than the air outside. This temperature difference is what causes the fog or condensation.
Many goggles offer an 'anti fog layer' or even thermal lenses (which are two layers of lens material with a sealed space between them providing a sort of thermal buffer.) The anti fog layers do help but thermal lenses are by far the better choice. Another option when attempting to reduce fog is buying or installing a fan that fits onto the goggles. That fan pulls the hotter air out from the goggle and allows cooler air to move in, reducing the fogging. If you don't posess goggles with fans/thermal lenses/anti fog layers or find yourself with too much fog, you can always attempt to install a fan (guides exist on airsoft sites on how to install them) or buy anti fog spray. Try to keep hats and clothing away from the goggle vent holes to improve circulation. Some goggles come with a dust filter installed along the holes. This piece of foam can be removed to assist in the ventalation process.
**REMEMBER** it is unsafe (and in most venues an offence) to remove or lift your goggles to clean the fog or ventilate them. Also, cutting larger vent holes can reduce the structural integrity of the mask or allow projectiles to enter.
One of the major complaints (especially from MP5 users) is the inability to use the iron sights on a gun while wearing a mask. The bottom rim of the eyewear bumps into the stock and can make it difficult to aim. This problem is also seen when users wear a helmet. The goggles may be too high to allow the headgear to seat properly on the head. Finding a pair of goggles that do not interfere with these processes can be difficult, especailly when buying paintball approved goggles. Ask people wearing helmets or using your type of weapon what works best for them.
The JT Spectra line of paintball goggles is popular and can come with a thermal lens. They fit fairly well with helmets and are easier to aim with than other goggle types. Most tactical eyewear is designed for both of these areas and should not present a problem.
In reality, there are only 3 things you need to play airsoft. One is a complete gun with battery and magazine, Two is ammunition, and the Third is Eye protection. I dont know about you, but I've played games with unarmed hostages/spectators before, and they were wearing eye protection. My guess is that it's the most important. What should you use for eye protection?
Short Answer
Any paintball approved goggle, airsoft approved goggle, or tactical eyewear that seals around your eyes. It's up to the field owner what can be used, but there should be no exception to the above. DO NOT USE SKI GOGGLES. DO NOT USE SHOP GLASSES.
Long Answer
There are several categories of eyewear to choose from and several factors to consider when making your choice.
When choosing a pair of goggles, there are a few things you should take into consideration. The first of which being, 'Who will let me play with these goggles' . As it stands in Southern Ontario, most if not all paintball fields that airsofters frequent require you to wear paintball approved goggles. These are the same goggles the paintballers wear when out at their games. Although the field owner does not need to justify this, the main reasons are that you may be struck by stray paintballs, or that their insurance does not cover 'non paintball approved' eyewear. With that in mind, it's safe to say that your first pair of goggles should be paintball approved. This will allow you to participate at games held at paintball fields. But just incase, check with your local field owner for details on what they require.
Tactical goggles, such as the ESS protective eyewear systems, and the Bolle tactical line are not usually allowed at paintball fields. However, most private fields or other venues will approve of these goggle types. Reasoning behind this is that a) there are no 'stray paintballs' and b) they are tactically rated and therefore acceptable for a low impact projectile like airsoft.
Another factor to consider when purchasing your goggles is fog protection. To dispell a myth, there are NO fogproof goggles. There will be fog or condensation in virtually any goggle at some point depending on the conditions. Fog is caused by small droplets of moisture condensing on a surface that is colder than the air around it. The air near your face under the goggles is or can be substantially warmer than the air outside. This temperature difference is what causes the fog or condensation.
Many goggles offer an 'anti fog layer' or even thermal lenses (which are two layers of lens material with a sealed space between them providing a sort of thermal buffer.) The anti fog layers do help but thermal lenses are by far the better choice. Another option when attempting to reduce fog is buying or installing a fan that fits onto the goggles. That fan pulls the hotter air out from the goggle and allows cooler air to move in, reducing the fogging. If you don't posess goggles with fans/thermal lenses/anti fog layers or find yourself with too much fog, you can always attempt to install a fan (guides exist on airsoft sites on how to install them) or buy anti fog spray. Try to keep hats and clothing away from the goggle vent holes to improve circulation. Some goggles come with a dust filter installed along the holes. This piece of foam can be removed to assist in the ventalation process.
**REMEMBER** it is unsafe (and in most venues an offence) to remove or lift your goggles to clean the fog or ventilate them. Also, cutting larger vent holes can reduce the structural integrity of the mask or allow projectiles to enter.
One of the major complaints (especially from MP5 users) is the inability to use the iron sights on a gun while wearing a mask. The bottom rim of the eyewear bumps into the stock and can make it difficult to aim. This problem is also seen when users wear a helmet. The goggles may be too high to allow the headgear to seat properly on the head. Finding a pair of goggles that do not interfere with these processes can be difficult, especailly when buying paintball approved goggles. Ask people wearing helmets or using your type of weapon what works best for them.
The JT Spectra line of paintball goggles is popular and can come with a thermal lens. They fit fairly well with helmets and are easier to aim with than other goggle types. Most tactical eyewear is designed for both of these areas and should not present a problem.
_________________
.......................................Krebs Tactical Rifle.........................Bastardized P90 long........................Bastardized P90tr
bug- Mercenary Mulisha
- Number of posts: 633
Age: 37
Location: Brooks, AB
Registration date: 2008-05-25 -
POST #6 from Bravo*Spartans will allow 17 year old, with leagle gardian Present*
by bug on 27th May 2008, 19:01
POST #6
Age Issues Across Canada
Question: I am under the age of 18! Can I buy a gun or play in an event?
Short Answer:
No you can not purchase a gun. You might be able to participate in an event.
Long Answer:
The airsoft community in Canada is extremely cautious and suspicious when it comes to individuals who are under age. If you've read the legal state of airsoft within Canada, the reasons for this should be apparent to you. However, the basic sense is as follows:
Despite the fact that airsoft will need young people to take up the sport to survive, it in NO WAY needs people who will use airsoft irresponsibly. One wrong move may lead to the death of a youth wielding an airsoft pistol, and a swift ban on all airsoft in Canada permanently. It is true that age is not always the best indicator of maturity, but the fact remains. Older people are legally responsible for their OWN actions, and young people are statistically more likely to do stupid irresponsible things. Please keep this in mind when reading the following statements.
In Ontario, it is Illegal for a person under the age of 18 to purchase an airsoft gun. Retailers regularly restrict sales to those over the age of 18. The only responsible way for you, as a person who is under age, to obtain an airsoft gun is for your parents to purchase it for you.
When it comes to participation, some events have age limits set by the host. Some fields have an 18+ age limit. HOWEVER, many fields will allow participation of individuals under the age of 18 as long as a parent is present. 16 seems to be the cut off age in most cases.
Please understand that these restrictions are community created and enforced for the good of the sport. By respecting them, you show respect for airsoft in general, and will be seen as more responsible than those generally present in your age group.
Age Issues Across Canada
Question: I am under the age of 18! Can I buy a gun or play in an event?
Short Answer:
No you can not purchase a gun. You might be able to participate in an event.
Long Answer:
The airsoft community in Canada is extremely cautious and suspicious when it comes to individuals who are under age. If you've read the legal state of airsoft within Canada, the reasons for this should be apparent to you. However, the basic sense is as follows:
Despite the fact that airsoft will need young people to take up the sport to survive, it in NO WAY needs people who will use airsoft irresponsibly. One wrong move may lead to the death of a youth wielding an airsoft pistol, and a swift ban on all airsoft in Canada permanently. It is true that age is not always the best indicator of maturity, but the fact remains. Older people are legally responsible for their OWN actions, and young people are statistically more likely to do stupid irresponsible things. Please keep this in mind when reading the following statements.
In Ontario, it is Illegal for a person under the age of 18 to purchase an airsoft gun. Retailers regularly restrict sales to those over the age of 18. The only responsible way for you, as a person who is under age, to obtain an airsoft gun is for your parents to purchase it for you.
When it comes to participation, some events have age limits set by the host. Some fields have an 18+ age limit. HOWEVER, many fields will allow participation of individuals under the age of 18 as long as a parent is present. 16 seems to be the cut off age in most cases.
Please understand that these restrictions are community created and enforced for the good of the sport. By respecting them, you show respect for airsoft in general, and will be seen as more responsible than those generally present in your age group.
Last edited by Googaly Moogaly on 27th May 2008, 19:12; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : fixing it.)
_________________
.......................................Krebs Tactical Rifle.........................Bastardized P90 long........................Bastardized P90tr
bug- Mercenary Mulisha
- Number of posts: 633
Age: 37
Location: Brooks, AB
Registration date: 2008-05-25 -
Re: More for new players....
by bug on 27th May 2008, 19:08
Basic Airsoft Pricing Guide
One of the most frequent questions asked by people interested in Airsoft and our site is "how much does it cost"? My usual answer is "how much you got'? So I have come up with the following pricing guide showing several different options for guns, gear and extras.The pricing (CDN) is broken up into three sections:
Entry Level - This lists the basics that will get you into an airsoft skirmish.
Mid Level - This lists slightly more advanced equipment, such as basic AEG upgrades and higher quality gear and will put you into a better level for MILSIM and team skirmishing.
Advanced Level - This lists where we all want to end up, on top with the biggest toys! Hope you have a good paying job for this section!
Most of the SIR team members are ranged in between the Mid to Advanced level.
Entry Level Mid Level Advanced Level
AEG - basic, no upgrades $480.00
x1 Battery and wall charger $80.00
x1 Hi-cap Magazine $70.00
x1 bag of Excel BB's (.22) $22.00
x1 set of camo BDU's $100.00
JT Paintball Goggles $60.00
FRS radio w/headset $100.00
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Entry Level Total: $972.00
Notes:
- Your best bet is to find an 'AEG package' that includes gun, battery and sometimes a few magazines. This is the most economical way to start.
- Good starting point and will get you equipped with the basics and allows you to take part in skirmishes.
- Suggest purchasing a used AEG to start with. This is ideal if you are not sure what type of AEG will best suit you.
- You can always re-sell your AEG (new or used) on the ASC forum.
- Get the feel of the game and skirmishing and try it a few times before making large investments.
AEG - full internal upgrades $890.00
GBB sidearm w/ gas $330.00
Charger/Discharger $150.00
x2 Batteries $140.00
x8 Low-cap Magazines $320.00
Red Dot scope w/mount $200.00
x3 bags of Excel BB's (.22) $60.00
x2 sets of camo BDU's $180.00
ESS Goggles $70.00
FRS radio w/headset $100.00
Combat Boots $120.00
Knee Pads $40.00
Nomex™ Gloves $55.00
Boonie Hat $25.00
Basic LBV or Chest Rig $150.00
Gun belt w/ tac holster $90.00
Auto BB Loader $80.00
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mid Level Total: $3,300.00
Notes:
- GBB sidearms are more for 'show' than go. Look at picking up a used one to start.
- Having several sets of camo is recommended as specific camo types are required for some team and MILSIM games.
SAW (M60 - M249) or 2 AEG's $2,300.00
GBB sidearm w/ gas $330.00
Charger/Discharger $150.00
x2 Batteries $140.00
x12 Low-cap Magazines $480.00
Red Dot scope w/mount $350.00
x3 sets of camo BDU's $250.00
ESS Goggles $70.00
GMRS/VHF radio w/headset $200.00
Combat Boots $120.00
Knee Pads $40.00
Nomex™ Gloves $55.00
High Speed LBV $400.00
Bergen or Ranger pack $350.00
Gun belt w/ tac holster $90.00
Auto BB Loader $80.00
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Advanced Level Total: $5,405.00
Notes:
- ELCAN , ACOG or TGS Aimpoint type scopes (high end).
- Additional kit for MILSIM scenarios.
- NVG's are a nice "luxury" piece of kit and are great for MILSIM's.
($800.00 - $1, 500.00)
- Fully customized and upgraded AEG including: RIS/RAS, full internal upgrades, silencer, rails, custom parts.
As you can see, you can be as conservative or extravagant as you want to be. The sky is the limit when it comes to airsoft. New weapons, parts and gear are always being designed, produced and released, sometimes on a weekly basis. My best advice is to do your homework and as much research as possible. There are a ton of resources available on the net, but try to stick to the Canadian web sites.
DO NOT order any AEG, or GBB from overseas or the States! It WILL get seized and you will not get your money back. There are plenty of Canadian retailers out there. Check our LINKS section for listings. If you are still not sure, drop me an email in the CONTACT section and I will do my best to answer it.
One of the most frequent questions asked by people interested in Airsoft and our site is "how much does it cost"? My usual answer is "how much you got'? So I have come up with the following pricing guide showing several different options for guns, gear and extras.The pricing (CDN) is broken up into three sections:
Entry Level - This lists the basics that will get you into an airsoft skirmish.
Mid Level - This lists slightly more advanced equipment, such as basic AEG upgrades and higher quality gear and will put you into a better level for MILSIM and team skirmishing.
Advanced Level - This lists where we all want to end up, on top with the biggest toys! Hope you have a good paying job for this section!
Most of the SIR team members are ranged in between the Mid to Advanced level.
Entry Level Mid Level Advanced Level
AEG - basic, no upgrades $480.00
x1 Battery and wall charger $80.00
x1 Hi-cap Magazine $70.00
x1 bag of Excel BB's (.22) $22.00
x1 set of camo BDU's $100.00
JT Paintball Goggles $60.00
FRS radio w/headset $100.00
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Entry Level Total: $972.00
Notes:
- Your best bet is to find an 'AEG package' that includes gun, battery and sometimes a few magazines. This is the most economical way to start.
- Good starting point and will get you equipped with the basics and allows you to take part in skirmishes.
- Suggest purchasing a used AEG to start with. This is ideal if you are not sure what type of AEG will best suit you.
- You can always re-sell your AEG (new or used) on the ASC forum.
- Get the feel of the game and skirmishing and try it a few times before making large investments.
AEG - full internal upgrades $890.00
GBB sidearm w/ gas $330.00
Charger/Discharger $150.00
x2 Batteries $140.00
x8 Low-cap Magazines $320.00
Red Dot scope w/mount $200.00
x3 bags of Excel BB's (.22) $60.00
x2 sets of camo BDU's $180.00
ESS Goggles $70.00
FRS radio w/headset $100.00
Combat Boots $120.00
Knee Pads $40.00
Nomex™ Gloves $55.00
Boonie Hat $25.00
Basic LBV or Chest Rig $150.00
Gun belt w/ tac holster $90.00
Auto BB Loader $80.00
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mid Level Total: $3,300.00
Notes:
- GBB sidearms are more for 'show' than go. Look at picking up a used one to start.
- Having several sets of camo is recommended as specific camo types are required for some team and MILSIM games.
SAW (M60 - M249) or 2 AEG's $2,300.00
GBB sidearm w/ gas $330.00
Charger/Discharger $150.00
x2 Batteries $140.00
x12 Low-cap Magazines $480.00
Red Dot scope w/mount $350.00
x3 sets of camo BDU's $250.00
ESS Goggles $70.00
GMRS/VHF radio w/headset $200.00
Combat Boots $120.00
Knee Pads $40.00
Nomex™ Gloves $55.00
High Speed LBV $400.00
Bergen or Ranger pack $350.00
Gun belt w/ tac holster $90.00
Auto BB Loader $80.00
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Advanced Level Total: $5,405.00
Notes:
- ELCAN , ACOG or TGS Aimpoint type scopes (high end).
- Additional kit for MILSIM scenarios.
- NVG's are a nice "luxury" piece of kit and are great for MILSIM's.
($800.00 - $1, 500.00)
- Fully customized and upgraded AEG including: RIS/RAS, full internal upgrades, silencer, rails, custom parts.
As you can see, you can be as conservative or extravagant as you want to be. The sky is the limit when it comes to airsoft. New weapons, parts and gear are always being designed, produced and released, sometimes on a weekly basis. My best advice is to do your homework and as much research as possible. There are a ton of resources available on the net, but try to stick to the Canadian web sites.
DO NOT order any AEG, or GBB from overseas or the States! It WILL get seized and you will not get your money back. There are plenty of Canadian retailers out there. Check our LINKS section for listings. If you are still not sure, drop me an email in the CONTACT section and I will do my best to answer it.
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.......................................Krebs Tactical Rifle.........................Bastardized P90 long........................Bastardized P90tr
bug- Mercenary Mulisha
- Number of posts: 633
Age: 37
Location: Brooks, AB
Registration date: 2008-05-25 -
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